Picking Out Your New Gerbils
The best place to adopt new gerbils is from a reputable breeder. A good gerbil breeder will spend lots of time socializing their pups and breeders, will monitor their health, and will only selectively breed gerbils that do not have health or personality problems.
Another excellent option is to check your local rescues. Many rescues will take in small mammals such as gerbils from time to time. Unfortunately, you may also end up with poorly socialized gerbils, or lone gerbils who need to be split caged (see below in "Social/Introductions").
The last source I would recommend would be pet stores (though it is possible to get friendly, healthy gerbils from them.) A lot of the time, however, gerbils at pet stores will be sick or unsocialized. Look for gerbils that have bright eyes - squinting or sunken eyes is a sign of illness. Greasy or puffed out fur is also a sign of stress or illness. If their rear end is wet or appears to be covered in feces, they can be seriously ill, and if you already have other gerbils at home, it can be communicable to them. Red discharge around the nose can indicate a respiratory infection. Also, an audible "clicking" noise can indicate the same thing.
As far as males vs. females, it's really a matter of personal preference. As a general rule, males tend to be more laid back and females more curious and hyper, but personality crossovers between the genders are quite common. Females tend to have a sleeker, more athletic build while males will fill out more and be pretty stocky. Also, older gerbils are much calmer than younger gerbils.
Another excellent option is to check your local rescues. Many rescues will take in small mammals such as gerbils from time to time. Unfortunately, you may also end up with poorly socialized gerbils, or lone gerbils who need to be split caged (see below in "Social/Introductions").
The last source I would recommend would be pet stores (though it is possible to get friendly, healthy gerbils from them.) A lot of the time, however, gerbils at pet stores will be sick or unsocialized. Look for gerbils that have bright eyes - squinting or sunken eyes is a sign of illness. Greasy or puffed out fur is also a sign of stress or illness. If their rear end is wet or appears to be covered in feces, they can be seriously ill, and if you already have other gerbils at home, it can be communicable to them. Red discharge around the nose can indicate a respiratory infection. Also, an audible "clicking" noise can indicate the same thing.
As far as males vs. females, it's really a matter of personal preference. As a general rule, males tend to be more laid back and females more curious and hyper, but personality crossovers between the genders are quite common. Females tend to have a sleeker, more athletic build while males will fill out more and be pretty stocky. Also, older gerbils are much calmer than younger gerbils.
Handling
Young and unsocialized gerbils need to be handled a certain in order to keep them from becoming stressed or scared. The best way to pick up a gerbil out of the cage is to create a scoop with your hand, maybe even going under the bedding if they don't trust your hand yet. If they are too skittish even for that, try placing a box or other container in the cage for them to go in, then lift them out with that. A great way to build trust is to just lay your hand in the cage with them and let them come explore it at their own pace. If they nibble, just sternly say "Ouch" or "No." If you pull away or jerk your hand, this could frighten them or teach them that bites = no more hand.
Try to avoid chasing your gerbil around the cage or sneaking up on them. Trying to grab them from above can also trigger their prey instincts (think of how a bird of prey hunts - from above!). NEVER PICK A GERBIL UP BY ITS TAIL. You run the risk of seriously injuring their tails, even pulling them off completely.
Try to avoid chasing your gerbil around the cage or sneaking up on them. Trying to grab them from above can also trigger their prey instincts (think of how a bird of prey hunts - from above!). NEVER PICK A GERBIL UP BY ITS TAIL. You run the risk of seriously injuring their tails, even pulling them off completely.
Social/ Introductions
In the wild, gerbils live in small, matriarchal family groups called "clans" - a dominant female, her mate, and their offspring. The offspring will stay and help out until the get old enough to wander off (or get kicked out by mom). While they are territorial, they are also very social, and will groom, play, and cuddle up with their clan members. A lone gerbil is a sad gerbil (in most cases). Gerbils can actually suffer from a form of depression when kept alone, and they are more prone to obesity.
Unlike most species of small mammals commonly kept as pets (hamsters, mice, rats, etc), females are the more territorial of the sexes. It is best to keep females in pairs. It is possible to keep females in trios, but occasionally they will go through a process called "declanning," which is when two of the females will attack another one or all three will start fighting each other. Better to be safe than sorry! Males are perfectly happy in pairs or larger groups, up to about 4.
Introducing gerbils can sometimes be a bit tricky. The best method is called the Split-cage Method, and it involves making a gerbil-proof divider for an aquarium or other cage, creating two inaccessible areas. One gerbils goes on each side, and everyday they get switched around several times (always enough so they end up sleeping on opposite sides of the cage every night). General rule of thumb is that this goes on for about two weeks, but in practice, it takes as long as it takes. Young males are easiest to introduce, while adult females are the most difficult and generally take the longest.
Email me for more information about constructing a split cage!
Unlike most species of small mammals commonly kept as pets (hamsters, mice, rats, etc), females are the more territorial of the sexes. It is best to keep females in pairs. It is possible to keep females in trios, but occasionally they will go through a process called "declanning," which is when two of the females will attack another one or all three will start fighting each other. Better to be safe than sorry! Males are perfectly happy in pairs or larger groups, up to about 4.
Introducing gerbils can sometimes be a bit tricky. The best method is called the Split-cage Method, and it involves making a gerbil-proof divider for an aquarium or other cage, creating two inaccessible areas. One gerbils goes on each side, and everyday they get switched around several times (always enough so they end up sleeping on opposite sides of the cage every night). General rule of thumb is that this goes on for about two weeks, but in practice, it takes as long as it takes. Young males are easiest to introduce, while adult females are the most difficult and generally take the longest.
Email me for more information about constructing a split cage!
Housing
The best habitat for gerbils is actually an aquarium. A 10 gallon is suitable for a pair of gerbils, but if you can afford and have space for a 20 gallon (long), that's even better! Tank toppers are also an excellent option to provide your gerbils with more space. There are several reasons why an aquarium is preferable to a wire or plastic cage -
A cheaper alternative to a glass aquarium is a plastic storage bin cage. (I will make a DIY page for these next time I make one. But for now, if you are interested in learning more, feel free to email me!) They are much less expensive than glass aquariums and very lightweight. They can provide much more space for your gerbils, but you have to be careful to select one that doesn't have bits of the plastic sticking out that the gerbils can start chewing.
- Gerbils naturally burrow, so aquariums allow for a nice, deep level of bedding for them to make tunnels in.
- As gerbils dig, they will throw their bedding around. An aquarium will keep it all in, not on your floor!
- Wire cages can get drafty, and gerbils can actually rub their noses raw by chewing on bars.
- Gerbils CHEW, a lot! So that cute (not to mention expensive!) modular hamster cage with all the tubes and attachment is a potential gerbil chew toy. That can also mean free range gerbils - Yikes!
- In most cases, aquariums are much less expensive than other alternatives.
- Aquariums are sturdy and will last longer than wire/plastic cages. They are also easier to clean and sanitize. Plastic can actually harbor bacteria, so bleaching doesn't clean it as well as glass.
A cheaper alternative to a glass aquarium is a plastic storage bin cage. (I will make a DIY page for these next time I make one. But for now, if you are interested in learning more, feel free to email me!) They are much less expensive than glass aquariums and very lightweight. They can provide much more space for your gerbils, but you have to be careful to select one that doesn't have bits of the plastic sticking out that the gerbils can start chewing.
Cleaning/ Bedding
Your gerbils' habitat should be cleaned regularly, about every 2-3 weeks depending on size of tank, number of gerbils, and amount of bedding. Gerbils are desert dwelling animals in the wild, so they have adapted to produce little waste - therefore, they have very little odor, even after two weeks. It is a very good idea to use bleach to sanitize your gerbils' habitat about once a month. (Rinse well!) It is important to avoid using harsh chemicals when cleaning your gerbils habitat (Clorox wipes, windex, etc.) These can seriously irritate your gerbils respiratory system, and if there is enough residue, it could kill them. If you do use these chemicals, be sure to rinse the cage VERY well. You can also use vinegar and hydrogen peroxide to sanitize your gerbils' cage.
As far as bedding goes, NEVER use pine or cedar! They have aromatic oils that will give your gerbils (or any small pet) a respiratory infection. I use both Carefresh and Aspen shavings. Carefresh Natural (brown kind) is a little dusting, but the Carefresh Ultra (white kind) is very nice. It absorbs odors well, but both are somewhat expensive. Aspen shavings also absorb odors well, but can also be somewhat dusty. It is also a good idea to freeze new bedding if possible, since sometimes it can be packaged with mites in it.
As far as bedding goes, NEVER use pine or cedar! They have aromatic oils that will give your gerbils (or any small pet) a respiratory infection. I use both Carefresh and Aspen shavings. Carefresh Natural (brown kind) is a little dusting, but the Carefresh Ultra (white kind) is very nice. It absorbs odors well, but both are somewhat expensive. Aspen shavings also absorb odors well, but can also be somewhat dusty. It is also a good idea to freeze new bedding if possible, since sometimes it can be packaged with mites in it.
Diet
Many commercially available diets are great for keeping your little friends healthy and happy. For non-breeding adult gerbils, you want to look for a food that is 12-14% protein and 6-8% fat. Moonstone Gerbils has done an excellent job breaking down some of the top name gerbil foods here.
Gerbils should also get a variety of fresh fruits and veggies (in moderation). Here you can find a good list of acceptable fresh foods to feed you gerbils, along with of dietary information.
I feed my gerbils a homemade mixture with a base diet of Oxbow's Healthy Handfuls. At this point, my recipe is not set in stone and I'm still trying to iron out the details. I will be sure to post it on here once I'm happy with it!
Gerbils should always have access to fresh, clean water. A water bottle is a much better choice than a water bowl, as a bowl will quickly fill with bedding. Gerbils have adapted to drink very little, so you may need to take down and clean the bottle before it is actually empty.
Gerbils should also get a variety of fresh fruits and veggies (in moderation). Here you can find a good list of acceptable fresh foods to feed you gerbils, along with of dietary information.
I feed my gerbils a homemade mixture with a base diet of Oxbow's Healthy Handfuls. At this point, my recipe is not set in stone and I'm still trying to iron out the details. I will be sure to post it on here once I'm happy with it!
Gerbils should always have access to fresh, clean water. A water bottle is a much better choice than a water bowl, as a bowl will quickly fill with bedding. Gerbils have adapted to drink very little, so you may need to take down and clean the bottle before it is actually empty.